The Mountain Institute

Points of contact vs attachment. please use “point of attachment”. Your feet can be a point of contact but they are not considered a point of attachment. 

Rescue load = two people

Standard load = one person

Redundancy- your call – but  be able to speak to any potential hazards … if they do or do not exist and how they are being managed. person(s) on system get final call.

Everything must have a hands free – no rappelling without a hands free

Two points of attachment during a change over when on a tensioned line until the new device or component is proven.

Moving rope your life = whatever

Moving rope and someone else’s life = gloves on

15kn minimum at master point with rescue load in vertical environment

10kn on slope with rescue or standard load

10kn with standard load in vertical

Locking carabiner when someone’s life is attached to that component in a environment they could slip and fall or vertical

Rope protection on isolated rubbing points, when ropes are fixed

Rope protection when ropes are touching abrasive surfaces, moving or fixed

Vt Minimum 6/1 for rescue load

minimum 1 point of attachment to a system when near a hazardous zone (fall area)

helmets = overhead hazard, situations where slip, fall or impact to the head are possible. 

safety checks – yourself or buddy check?

Strength reduction assumptions

Powercord assumed 50% reduction

Dynemma and nylon slings, webbing. 50%

Accessory cord 1/3 reduction

Life safety lines (9.5mm) 1/3 reduction

Or everything can be 50%. Up to the team